Monday, September 24, 2012

Pattern Grading Experiment For Pattern Cutting Skill Development

The results for yesterday's pattern grading experiment for expanding my pattern cutting skills.  The red bodice pattern and sleeve blocks are the 'Internet' grade I did.  This is where a pattern is simply scaled down or up to whatever size it needs to be.  For example if you need to grade a size 6 up to a size 8,  you've got to increase bust,  waist and hip measurements by 1" and this is what I was doing.

Because I'm working with half the front and back bodice sections,  you've got to change each using a 1/4 of the over all grade,  in this case I had to add on 1/4" to the front and back sections and do almost the same for the vertical measurements as well.

The green bodice pattern and sleeve blocks however,  were graded according to Connie Amaden Crawford's book on grading.  First you've got to section the blocks in certain horizontal and vertical areas,  then you've got to figure the amounts to spread them outward or inward to enlarge them or decrease the block's size,  respectively.  (A little bit needs to be reserved  for the hip measurement so it's left out when the bodice section  is being vertically graded). A detail totally neglected in the 'Internet' method.

Click to see the actual difference between the aligned patterns.

Here,  I've aligned the green version over the red version and it turns out that the red version is a bit bigger then it's supposed to be and a bit longer as well.  You'll have to click on the link to really see the difference,  but it's a bit too much of a difference.  On a lazy day,  I might grade a pattern using the 'Internet' method if I was working on a pattern I'd be sewing for myself,  like to wear right... maybe.   However,  seeing as how Kathleen Fasanella said that when pattern cutting professionally,  your patterns can't have as much as 1/32 of a error,  I think I'd better stick to Connie Amaden Crawford's grading technique when I'm doing client work.   No questions or doubts about that in my mind.

So now, I've got to check the armscye balance,  that's the armhole measurement,  adjust the curves,  check and possibly adjust the sleeve cap curve and ease,  place the notches in their correct places and give them their 1/2" seam allowances.   Then I'll take this size 8 (Butterick standard) and grade it up to a size 10 getting ready to do some work for a client.

For all those aspiring designers and those who want to learn pattern cutting,  I'll be offering these additional sizes of blocks for only $5,  once I've got my pavment store set back up on my facebook page,  so stay tuned,  hopefully over the course of this coming month you'll see these new size 8 and size 10 bodice patterns available.


If you are interested in my discount digital pattern cutting or digitization service however,  or you have any questions,  please email me for more information at stylistwithacause@gmail.com or visit my Facebook page to learn more.





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