Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Patternmaking In CorelDraw9

Wow,  once you know how to use a software and you have a skill you can implement iton it,  like patternmaking things can get really cool.   With the precision of a software like CorelDraw9 program your confidense goes up and because you don't have to worry about wasting any fabric or paper you're ready to edit anything over and over again,  save all your 'work in progress' steps as valuable resources and above all experiment.   I grade my patterns,  I build the seams,  add the allocations and pattern markings,  use slash and spread techniques and dart piviting as well as create and edit style lines all in one place.   The only problem is that I couldn't measure curves.  

This becomes a problem any time I had to true up the armcye and/or a sleeve cap.   Before today I was printing out sections of my patterns and reprinting them from AdobePhotoshop CS2 whenever I had to walk the sleeves into their armholes and adjust their curves as needed because there was no way for me to perfectly measure them.   Truly a nuisance.   So I decided to look for how to measure curves in CorelDraw9 on Google.  

I stumbled upon a forum where some guy who happened to be a CorelDraw user that developed a script for doing just that.   Cool little thing too.   Any way here's the full lowdown for any of you who may need such a curve measuring script:

(Thank you Peter Clifton of the UK,  for putting out this free to download and edit script,  God bless you big time)

First download the curve measuring script for your version of CorelDraw9 from Peter Clifton's page: http://www.clifton89.freeserve.co.uk/

Then follow the instructions about how to incorporate the file into your CorelDraw9 subdirectory (folder group in programs on your computer) Scroll down to the bottom of this page:
http://www.oberonplace.com/draw/drawscripts/megagallery/index.htm

And all this has got me to thinking about my own designs too.   When I've completed patterns for my clients and I have a little extra free time,  I could develop my patterns,  say in a size 6 like my dressform and either sell them to home sewers who like my designs or sell them to clothing manufacturers who like them.  Of course this means I'd most likely lose re-sale and distribution rights,  but I won't mind that at all if I can get credit for my designs (not at all like when you work as ghost writer).

At this point,  I have no idea what next time's post will be about,  but it'll definitely be something cool about patternmaking or fashion design.   I thank God for all the people out there that put together free information,  programs and scripts for those who need them.

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:
Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:
The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

Saturday, January 28, 2012

Lemon Tulip Lingerie Pattern Completed ! What To Do Next...

Here it is,  my pattern is all done,  anotations,  pattern markings, seams and print ready layout:





Now before I did the layout of the blocks I looked for a print shop that could make me a print out of the finished pattern.   I settled on Staples,  you got to love that place,  however,  unlike the Staples printing services that offer affordable printing for custom oversized print outs,  Canadian Staples only offer print jobs that fit into poster sized layouts.   This being 24 by 36 inches and 22 by 79 inches.   Not bad but I would have liked having the US oversized Staples options available.  Oh well,  this will be good too.

I decided to make the front blocks pink and the back blocks green just so it would look pretty on my blog,  but if I was sending this out to a client,  I think I'd better stick with black.  It's more professional,  unless of course they like the color idea.

Now I have to find out how much it's going to cost to get this printed out for the prototype garment.  If it's a bit too pricey for me right now,  I guess I'll 'cut' the layout up in Adobe Photoshop and print the little letter size portions out on my HP and tape it all together.   I'll only do that though if I get too impatient and someone isn't ready to send any work my way in the coming week.   

This is so neat to be sewing up my own pattern.   I know that it's going to be a big learning/thrill experience that will help me gain some terrific insight into patternmaking.   However,  I've got my worries too,  such as

1.  how relaxed and puffy will the gathers in the skirt and tulip sleeves look?  I want it to look really floral,  not tired

2.  will the darts in the bodice allow the bodice to sit nicely on the bust area?

3.  how will the wide,  deep neckline sit on the shoulders and neck?  (I took care of the gaposis issue following Connie's advice in her book "Patternmaking Made Easy" but you never know right with one this large,  I'll learn through this experience)

4. how will the hem facing affect the hang and 'puff' of the tulip skirt?  I hope it won't be too heavy

5. how will the bias cut effect the hang and puff of the tulip sleeves?  Again,  I want them to look floral not droopy, at the same time though I didn't want to give it a normal hem and stitchy up the edge of these "flowers" so I took up Roberta Carr's suggestion in her book "Couture: The Art Of Fine Sewing"

6. I cut the side seams of the bodice band at an angle matching the angle of the bodice side seams and I'm wondering if it'll allow the bodice to sit right and look okay while gently anchoring the garment just below the bustline?

So I'm apprehensive,  excited and even a little scared,  but my curiosity of course has got the better of me which is a good thing.

Soon as I have the esemble complete I'll post it here on my blog,  but that may be awhile so the next several posts will mostly likely cover patternmaking issues/discoveries I make through working with my clients and so on.

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:
Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:
The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page